Friday, May 25, 2007

Chinatown

The convention center is just south of Chinatown, and I must admit, I have not explored this area enough. I can tell you that the two restaurants that my friends enjoy most in Chinatown are Penang and Vietnam Restaurant (NOT to be confused with Vietnam Palace, which is across the street but is nowhere near as good, in my experience). Of the two, Vietnam Restaurant is my personal favorite, with fun cocktails and a great BBQ appetizer platter. I'm in love with the crispy spring rolls! I have found that the big entrees with sauces are a bit too heavy for my taste, and getting something lighter on top of rice vermicelli always suits me best.

If you just want to stop in to escape the heat or take a break in the afternoon, try the Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, or the homemade coconut ice cream. These were some of my favorite treats back in the days when I could meet up there with friends to relax after work. Unless you're planning an event/party, they don't take reservations, so be prepared for a bit of a wait if you go at prime dinner hour-- though I've never had to wait a ridiculously long time for a table.

Other than Vietnam Restaurant, the only thing I know about in Chinatown is the arch at 10th and Arch Streets (which is an impressive sight). If you have never been to a Chinatown in New York or San Francisco, etc., then you should definitely take a little stroll into ours. It has lots of Asian gift shops and groceries, and since it is so close to the convention center, why not see what it's all about?

South Street

Has anyone ever heard that old song about where all the people meet? South Street! South Street!

Now we're getting close to my home territory. When I walk my daughter to school in the morning, I like to weave around the small side streets and cozy alleys of my neighborhood, but on the way back home, I like to walk down South Street to see the business there "wake up" and get ready for the day.

South Street used to be famous as a kind of "counter culture" scene, and also a place of "shocking" shops-- tattoo parlors next to erotic stores next to piercing places next to bars next to cheeseteak joints. Its feel is changing a bit, though, and while these places are still there, you also see Starbucks, Adidas, and The Gap, arts and crafts galleries, and restaurants with cuisine from all over the world. Turn any corner and you may find record shops (and I mean vinyl), vintage and boutique clothing stores, natural food groceries, bookshops, fabric stores, and my apartment! You could really walk around there all day, but as no one has that much time to spend, I suggest at least one stroll down South Street in the area of 2nd to 8th street.

If you're up for a longer walk, I would challenge you to come all the way down to where I live and see the "Magic Garden" on South between 10th and 11th streets. Created by local mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar, the "garden" is a point of pride for our neighborhood (called Bella Vista), and there's been a real effort to save this wonderland of recycled materials from falling under a wrecking ball to make way for "development" (South Street is prime real estate for expensive condos these days). If you can't make it down there, though, you'll probably see Mr. Zagar's swirling mirror and tile mosaics peeking out at you from alleys and houses all over the place-- lots of people and businesses on around South St. have asked him to put his sparkling touch on their walls.

Just one little warning: like I said, South Street still retains its racey character in many respects. It is a place of many different people, and it can be smelly, crowded, littered-- and don't forget that the erotic shops have windows that could make you blush! (More likely, though, they'll make you laugh or roll your eyes.) Most of the stores are open by noon at the latest, but the evenings get very wild in the summer. Plan to go in the afternoon if you want to have a relaxed time (once again, this is when the stroller types are there)-- and obviously, go at night if you want to see craziness. Whatever you do, DON'T TRY TO DRIVE ON SOUTH STREET FROM 2nd to 10th St. AT NIGHT! Traffic hardly moves since lots of people are cruising and trying to find parking. It's practically at a standstill all night long. Oh, and I don't think you should eat at Johnny Rockets. Though it has a cute retro theme, the food there made me feel gross after I ate it!

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

DUCK BOATS

The thing about people from Philadelphia is... they think Philly is the greatest city in the world, but then they get annoyed at tourists who want to visit and enjoy it in funny, tourist-y ways. And one of these tourist ventures that some Philadelphians love-to-hate are the Duck boats! We love them, though, and my two-year-old son and I often go Duck boat spotting-- he can see them coming a mile away and never ceases to be delighted by them!

The DUCKS are based on the design of WWII era amphibious vehicles. They drive around Independence Park, South Street, and Society Hill a bit, and then they drive into the river! You cruise the river for a tiny bit, and then drive back up on land. I took the tour with my 4-year-old as part of a birthday party, and we really enjoyed it together. However, for an adult who is not accompanied by a child, it may not be the best tour option. It is expensive, at upwards of $20 (for adults), and though your driver will probably give you an informed tour, he/she will also play silly songs over the PA and encourage you to use your yellow plastic quacker at passers-by. My son and I love it when people quack at us, but other Philly natives can be rude about it.

If you're interested, check out the website, and take a gander at the boats themselves when they're lined up on 6th St (just north of where it crosses Chestnut)-- maybe for you, like us, it will be enough to see these interesting vehicles. If you do want to RIDE the Ducks, I would advise going early. I believe the first tours start at 10am, and it seems to me like most of the people along the tour route in the morning are the genial type (like women with strollers) and not the jaded wet blankets.

The Lights of Liberty and Ben Franklin's Ghost

When I did the Lights of Liberty tour back in... 2001? I think... it was not my favorite thing. You put on a headset and walk around Independence Park at night, listening to really good audio, but looking at really crappy lighting and projected images. It made me feel like a sheep...that is, sort of ridiculous. And at almost $20 per person, I don't really think it's worth it.

HOWEVER, the lobby for the Lights of Liberty show is open at 10am everyday, and they have a little gift shop and a really fun thing called Ben Franklin's Ghost, and it's FREE! My husband Seth introduced me to this wonderful machine this weekend, and though it is a little hokey, it is exactly the kind of thing I can get a kick out of for five minutes.

SO, if you're seeing the sights around Independence Park and want to duck into some air conditioning, go see old Ben's ghost! You can ask him preset questions, or even make up your own using a list of words on the computer. It's not half bad! And we were lucky enough to run into the man himself while we were there (or rather, the best look-alike ever who has been the official Ben for something like 20 years). It's at the corner of 6th and Chestnut, opposite Independence Hall.

The Independence Seaport Museum

Our little family of four just visited the Independence Seaport Museum, and (unlike so many things in this world) it EXCEEDED my expectations! The best parts had to be the workshop within the Museum and the tours you can take of a REAL submarine and a REAL turn of the century warship that are parked in the river just outside! It was SO cool, so if you like boats, history, wars or even physics (the physics of floating and moving in the water) you will like this place. I loved it!

The workshop: When we visited on a Saturday, two men were in the workshop building a replica of a medium sized sailing vessel. While one toiled away, the other (who was extremely personable and knowledgeable) answered all of our questions, pointed things out around the workshop, and let us put our hands all over stuff to give us an idea of what they were doing.

The BECUNA: The Becuna is a WWII-era submarine-- oh my goodness! What an experience-- you don't know what our servicemen did for us until you cram yourself down into this thing and see for yourself what life was like under the surface. This is not for people who have mobility trouble, as there are narrow stairways and small hatch doorways to navigate.

The OLYMPIA: If not for the guns poking out of the pretty windows, you might at first feel like you were on a leisure fun ship when you step into the Olympia. But soon you realize that even if the Admiral had his own leather couches and huge enamel tub, the enlisted crew was left swinging in hammocks when they needed to unwind. The Olympia founght in the Spanish American War, and an exhibit inside the Museum will get you pumped to see it with information on Teddy Roosevelt, the Rough Riders, and the explosion off the coast of Cuba that started it all.

The Museum is included in the City Pass, too, if that's something you'd like to try. Get more information about CIty Pass, and the Museum, here.

Friday, May 4, 2007

The Fisher Fine Arts Library

I spent years working and studying the Fisher Fine Arts Library, and it still is a breathtaking site to me. If there's one building on Penn Campus that you see, I'd say this should be the one. The Library is closed on weekends in the summer, but is open from 9am-5pm Mon-Thurs, and 9-5 on Fri.

The Library's official address is 220 South 34th Street, but if you walk down 34th you'll only see it from the back-- still, you can't miss it. It looks very RED and very Gothic. You need to go up the stairs on the West side of 34th Street (toward the Green), and walk around to the front stairs. Once in the lobby, go straight through to the library doors. You'll be immediately up against a turnstile-- so lean over and ask the front desk person if visitors are allowed to come in. Sometimes you can get in with a driver's license and by signing in-- but if not, just having a look around from the door is enough! It's quite a sight, and only takes 5 minutes. Pay special attention to the windows! Oh, and if you saw the movie Philadelphia with Tom Hanks, you may recognize this as the Law Library-- I guess the real law school library wasn't pretty enough, so they came here and dressed up the art books to look like law journals, and changed the lamps (weird). It's probably the most beautiful library I've ever been to... see what you think!

Sansom Street and the White Dog Cafe (3420 Sansom Street)

Oh, how I love the White Dog! For as many times as I have been there, though, I have never actually wanted to sit in the restaurant part of it... for me, it's all about the bar! And not because I drink. On the contrary, I feel that the tastiest things (and most reasonably priced, I may add) are found on the bar menu there. I encourage everyone to check it out, and maybe peek into the adorable shops that are on either side. It's a delightful place, and has the added bonus of being a grassroots activism supporter. The proprietor is the ex-wife of the guy behind the Urban Outfitters stores-- while he went big money, she preferred to keep it local, and keep it real. Who wouldn't want to support that?

When you walk in, you'll see a few tables and the bar. The tables have waiter/waitress service, but you can also eat at the bar. On many a slow afternoon I would go in with some work, sit at the bar, and just order coffee. But if you go in looking for dinner, you may find it lively and crowded... maybe sit outside? They often have tables on the sidewalk in nice weather. Or, if you think it looks good, try the restaurant-- but I'm not a big fan of the big entree style-- their dishes seem a little fussy and are definitely on the expensive side. But that's just me.

My FAVORITE thing at the White Dog is the Veggie Burger with guacamole. Whenever my birthday rolls around, this is always what I want! Add a local beer, like a Yards or Flying Fish, and it is a great meal. Try the creme brulee with a dog-shaped cookie for dessert.

If you want to go upscale, La Terasse is a few doors down, and also is a restaurant with a bar. The New Deck Tavern is where kids in my day would go to get fried foods cheap, but if you feel like something very informal, try them!

Also next to the White Dog is The Black Cat/Saturn Club-- where a gift shop is fused with a salon AND a cafe (I think??). I have always liked checking out the unusual stuff at the Black Cat, and for a while my mom was a big fan of their jewelry.

Avril 50 is a small, sort of overflowing international magazine/paperie type place where I used to go to buy dark chocolate bars-- you know, the serious 90% dark stuff. If you like a European feel for your chocolate and newspapers, it's WONDERFUL!

Though I haven't been in there for a while, Bucks County Coffee still has their flag hanging on Sansom Row. In my day, they had the best frozen coffee with sprinkles. It's also a local establishment-- Bucks County is north of the city-- and perhaps a nice alternative to the same old Starbucks.

Your Hotel: The Sheraton

For everyone staying at The Sheraton in University City, I think you lucked out! Not only are you about one block away from both a subway (34th and Market) AND a trolley (36th and Sansom) into Center City (if you're feeling adventurous), but there's always a line of cabs waiting patiently outside the front door for anyone who needs one. And the big bonus-- your hotel is caddycorner to a WAWA (36th and Chestnut)!

Wawa (a Native American name for the Canada Goose--you'll see the goose in their logo) is a local dairy/convenience store chain that you'll want to know about. They have drinks, coffee, and snacks if you're in a pinch, but most importantly, their ATM's are FREE. I know most people don't worry about cash anymore-- and it's most likely your own bank will still charge you a fee-- but if you want to avoid the $2 that most ATM's charge up front, find a WAWA and get your money there. They're all over the city. Also, they're open 24 hours-- which was great for me as an undergrad.

Speaking of undergrads, since you'll be in University City in the summer, you won't have to deal with students! Well, some summer students will be there... but I must say, my favorite times at Penn were during the summer, when a kind of sleepy peacefulness settled over campus. I hope you take a little time--maybe an afternoon if you have it-- to explore the area around your hotel a bit, because it has some wonderful attractions that are guaranteed to be less crowded and crazy than the tourist swamps of Center City.

Here's a list of things within a short SHORT walking distance of where you are-- don't be too overwhelmed-- I'll do posts on each of them:

WAWA -- REMEMBER: FREE ATM'S! 36th and Chestnut. 24 hours! They sell ice cream! Coffee! Tastykakes (if you're into sweets!)

Sansom Row shops and the White Dog Cafe-- 1/2 block south of the hotel-- walk south on 36th St and turn left on Sansom OR walk south on 34th and turn right on Sansom. I love the White Dog Cafe Bar Menu--try eating outside, too!

The ICA: Institute of Contemporary Art -- 36th and Sansom-- west side of the street

University of Pennsylvania Bookstore and various shops: 36th and Walnut (2 blocks south of the hotel)

Starbucks (if you feel like going to a chain): 34th and Walnut (2 blocks south of the hotel)

Penn Campus-- "The Green": Walk down 34th or 36th-- cross Walnut. You will be on the main campus area of Penn. You'll start to see the big green lawn areas dotted with trees and crossed with paths. If you stroll around a little there's lots of cool architecture and public sculpture to see. The neo-Gothic Fine Arts Library is a must see for any architecture enthusiast-- more on that later.

The Univ. of Penn Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology-- perhaps one of the most under appreciated museums in the city. It's architecture and collections are awesome, and you don't have to spend all day to see it. And it only costs $8 to get in-- cheap compared to the bigger Museums-- with a reduced admission on Sundays.

Check out my other posts on these (coming soon), or take a look at their websites!