There are so many sculptures and murals in Philadelphia, it would be impossible for me to sum it all up in a nutshell. While you are here, walking our streets, you will not be able to avoid it! So if you're interested in what you will see, I thought I would give you a few links to webpages that do a good job of providing more information.
You can't walk two blocks without seeing one of many murals painted on the wall of a building. The Mural Arts Program has been the major force behind the murals all over Philadelphia. Check out their webpage or the database of Philly's murals available here. Every Wednesday and Saturday at 11:00am, the Mural Arts Program conducts a two-hour trolley tour of several murals (there's no way they could get to all of them). The trolley leaves from the Independence Visitor's Center at 6th and Market. There are only two tours a week, so I would advise getting their early to buy your ticket (which is $24 for adults), or even making a reservation. If you are interested, you can find out more about it here.
As for public sculpture, there are the things that show up on postcards-- Robert Indiana's LOVE sculptures near City Hall and on Penn Campus (yes, we have two!), Claus Oldenberg's clothespin (also near city hall) and button (on Penn's campus), Rodin's "Thinker" outside the Rodin Museum, the various sculptures by three generations of Calders-- I could go on and on. But even as an art historian living in Philly for ten years, I didn't know there was a Lichtenstein on our streets, or that the bolt of lightning at the base of the Ben Franklin Bridge is by Isamu Noguchi! The best way to get an idea of what's here, whether you want to search by artist, location, or print out a walking tour, is to look at a website like this one.
As with everything in Philly, sometimes the best things are the ones that take a little effort to find. So keep your eyes open-- there's a lot to see!
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Rittenhouse Square and Walnut Street Shops
Rittenhouse Square is bordered by Walnut Street to the north, 18th Street to the east and 19th to the west. Rittenhouse is undoubtedly a place to see and be seen! With high-end residences and restaurants all around, not to mention stores like Jones New York, anthropologie, and boutiques like Knit Wit, it's about as "ritzy" as Philadelphia gets.
My favorite thing to do during a visit to Rittenhouse Square is to pick up a pastry from Metropolitan Bakery, just south of the Square on 19th Street, and then head up to La Colombe, north of the Square, on 19th Street, for a cappucino. La Colombe is generally known as having the city's best coffee, and consequently, the cafe is usually filled with many MANY "scenesters". I like to get my coffee to go, and sit in the park with it.
Rittenhouse Square, itself, is a joyous little place, filled with benches, sculptures, a fountain, and flowers. Children are almost always present, along with students, business people, retirees, and yes, even the occassional crazy homeless person. In a word, EVERYBODY is at Rittenhouse Square.
After you take in some people watching, you can look up at the surrounding architecture, too. Buildings old and new surround the perimeter of the square, and you can find walking tours of the area on the Rittenhouse webpage link above. If you're a shopper, stroll down Walnut Street. Directly across from the square you'll find Barnes and Noble and anthropologie. Walk down toward Broad St (in the direction of 17th St-- EAST), and you'll see Urban Outfitters, Tiffany and Co., Kenneth Cole, Ann Taylor, Joan Shepp, The Children's Boutique, Gap, Williams Sonoma, Banana Republic, and Polo, among others! It's a great place to feel fancy, but there are also pizza shops, sandwich places, and a McDonald's if you feel like taking a break from the high-brow.
We love Rittenhouse! I highly recommend a visit.
My favorite thing to do during a visit to Rittenhouse Square is to pick up a pastry from Metropolitan Bakery, just south of the Square on 19th Street, and then head up to La Colombe, north of the Square, on 19th Street, for a cappucino. La Colombe is generally known as having the city's best coffee, and consequently, the cafe is usually filled with many MANY "scenesters". I like to get my coffee to go, and sit in the park with it.
Rittenhouse Square, itself, is a joyous little place, filled with benches, sculptures, a fountain, and flowers. Children are almost always present, along with students, business people, retirees, and yes, even the occassional crazy homeless person. In a word, EVERYBODY is at Rittenhouse Square.
After you take in some people watching, you can look up at the surrounding architecture, too. Buildings old and new surround the perimeter of the square, and you can find walking tours of the area on the Rittenhouse webpage link above. If you're a shopper, stroll down Walnut Street. Directly across from the square you'll find Barnes and Noble and anthropologie. Walk down toward Broad St (in the direction of 17th St-- EAST), and you'll see Urban Outfitters, Tiffany and Co., Kenneth Cole, Ann Taylor, Joan Shepp, The Children's Boutique, Gap, Williams Sonoma, Banana Republic, and Polo, among others! It's a great place to feel fancy, but there are also pizza shops, sandwich places, and a McDonald's if you feel like taking a break from the high-brow.
We love Rittenhouse! I highly recommend a visit.
Monday, June 4, 2007
The Mutter Museum
A unique blend of history and medicine, the Mutter Museum is a display of medical oddities, and is considered by most Philadelphians as a good place for a blind date or a great place to take visiting friends who want to see something NEW. The actual "cabinet of curiosities" as it were, is a tasteful arrangement of artifacts within floor to ceiling wooden cabinets on two floors. It doesn't take too long to see-- I went through in about an hour. Check out the webpage a little and see if it's your thing-- it's in the Rittenhouse Square area and I think it's near the Phlash Bus route.
First Friday
I do believe that the convention's dates may mean that some of you are in the city on the first friday of July. If you are, you may want to check out a popular Philadelphia tradition, called (simply enough) First Friday! It is ostensibly a time for the art galleries in Old City to open their doors to an evening crowd, put out some wine and cheese and let everyone take in the work of new local artists. Among the galleries are also theaters, bars, restaurants, and shops... not to mention the artists and students that park themselves on the sidewalk to either display their own art, or to play music, etc. It's a fairly festive time-- so be warned that it will probably be a good size crowd.
If you want to go, the main area of interest is from Market Street to Race Street (Race is 2 blocks north of Market--you can tell there's not much more to see when the crowd thins significantly) on both 2nd and 3rd streets. On 2nd Street BELOW Market there are lots of clubs and restaurants that are usually packed with 20-somethings in their best going out clothes, so you can explore that, too, if you want! The whole thing usually goes on from 5 until 8 or 9pm-- at least, that's when the art galleries close up. Restaurants, clubs, and bars stay open late!
If you want to go, the main area of interest is from Market Street to Race Street (Race is 2 blocks north of Market--you can tell there's not much more to see when the crowd thins significantly) on both 2nd and 3rd streets. On 2nd Street BELOW Market there are lots of clubs and restaurants that are usually packed with 20-somethings in their best going out clothes, so you can explore that, too, if you want! The whole thing usually goes on from 5 until 8 or 9pm-- at least, that's when the art galleries close up. Restaurants, clubs, and bars stay open late!
City Hall
Let's talk about something you can see just a few minutes from the Convention Center: CITY HALL! Each of the four main entrances has its own architectural program, i.e. no two are the same. Apparently you can go up to an observation deck to see the view, but I've never done that.
if you want to take an official tour, go to the tour information center in Room 121 in the east portal.
But if you only have a minute, walk around a bit, and also look up and see if you can spot the statue of William Penn by Alexander Milne Calder at the top of the tower. Billy Penn was the tallest thing in the city for a while, and builders followed an unwritten rule of not going taller than his hat. When Liberty One pushed past, some say ol' Billy put a curse on our professional sports teams, not allowing them to win a championship. We've come pretty close many times, but no one has won, have they? Maybe we are cursed... but lots of buildings have followed suit, and there's no going back now...
It's interesting to note something about the Calders-- three generations of sculptors whose work can be seen up and down the Ben Franklin Parkway. Alexander Milne Calder did William Penn on top of city hall. A.M. Calder's son, Alexander Stirling Calder, was a sculptor for the Logan Square fountain, and A. Stirling Calder's son, Alexander Calder, is the famous Calder of the 20th Century, whose mobile "Ghost" can be seen hanging in the Great Stair Hall of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and a collection of his stabiles have ben installed along the south edge of the Parkway between 21st and 22nd streets. To me, this is a cool Parkway legacy. Just a bit of trivia!
if you want to take an official tour, go to the tour information center in Room 121 in the east portal.
But if you only have a minute, walk around a bit, and also look up and see if you can spot the statue of William Penn by Alexander Milne Calder at the top of the tower. Billy Penn was the tallest thing in the city for a while, and builders followed an unwritten rule of not going taller than his hat. When Liberty One pushed past, some say ol' Billy put a curse on our professional sports teams, not allowing them to win a championship. We've come pretty close many times, but no one has won, have they? Maybe we are cursed... but lots of buildings have followed suit, and there's no going back now...
It's interesting to note something about the Calders-- three generations of sculptors whose work can be seen up and down the Ben Franklin Parkway. Alexander Milne Calder did William Penn on top of city hall. A.M. Calder's son, Alexander Stirling Calder, was a sculptor for the Logan Square fountain, and A. Stirling Calder's son, Alexander Calder, is the famous Calder of the 20th Century, whose mobile "Ghost" can be seen hanging in the Great Stair Hall of the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and a collection of his stabiles have ben installed along the south edge of the Parkway between 21st and 22nd streets. To me, this is a cool Parkway legacy. Just a bit of trivia!
The Ben Franklin Parkway: Museums and the Rocky Steps
Sometime at the end of the 19th century, the city fathers in Philly decided to cut a swath of road starting from city hall and extending to a reservoir that was on the edge of Fairmount Park. They eventually lined it with museums and designed it on a scale befitting the Place de la Concorde-- and now we call it the Benjamin Franklin Parkway! The Philadelphia Museum of Art is now at the far end (built on top of the empty reservoir) and is an icon of the city. Even its stairs are famous, and I bet that there may be an adventurous soul among you that would like to run up them and do the famous Rocky pose at the top-- with both hands held up in victorious celebration! Eye of the tiger!
Let's see... along the Parkway we've got the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Franklin Institute Science Museum (and their King Tut exhibition), The Rodin Museum, The Academy of Natural Sciences,and Logan Sqaure (also known as Logan Circle).
Not far from the Parkway you can find Eastern State Penitentiary (which I love) and the Please Touch Museum (which is really only fun if you're a little kid, or if you're with one).
The Parkway also has a bit of sculpture that's fun to see. Between 21st and 22nd on the southern side of the Parkway you'll see several stabiles by Alexander Calder. Then there's the famous Washington Monument in front of the Art Museum (not like the big obelisk in DC-- the one in Philly is sort of a menagerie of Gen. Washington, bison, moose, people, etc). On a pretty day, it's an excellent walk.
I love the art museum, anyway, so I'd say if you're going there from the convention center area, or vice versa, why not walk? The Phlash, I believe, also drives along the parkway, so that could be a nice way to catch a glimpse of it, too.
Let's see... along the Parkway we've got the Philadelphia Museum of Art, the Franklin Institute Science Museum (and their King Tut exhibition), The Rodin Museum, The Academy of Natural Sciences,and Logan Sqaure (also known as Logan Circle).
Not far from the Parkway you can find Eastern State Penitentiary (which I love) and the Please Touch Museum (which is really only fun if you're a little kid, or if you're with one).
The Parkway also has a bit of sculpture that's fun to see. Between 21st and 22nd on the southern side of the Parkway you'll see several stabiles by Alexander Calder. Then there's the famous Washington Monument in front of the Art Museum (not like the big obelisk in DC-- the one in Philly is sort of a menagerie of Gen. Washington, bison, moose, people, etc). On a pretty day, it's an excellent walk.
I love the art museum, anyway, so I'd say if you're going there from the convention center area, or vice versa, why not walk? The Phlash, I believe, also drives along the parkway, so that could be a nice way to catch a glimpse of it, too.
Cheesesteaks!
I'm sure everyone has seen a "Philadelphia Cheese Steak" listed on a menu from time to time. Well, now you get to try the real thing! All steaks are not created equal though, so it is wise to consider the options! And I also advise having CASH for these places. I don't think any of them take credit cards-- better to be safe.
Pat's King of Steaks (at the intersection of 9th and Wharton, and Passyunk! You'll most likely want to take a cab)-- many people believe Pat's is the best. And then, some people (who like cheesesteaks in general) hate Pat's. Things to keep in mind-- there is a certain way of ordering that is fun to learn. Read the posted signs and listen to the people in front of you when they order. Also, observe that there is one line for steaks and one line for fries and drinks. Split up and get through both lines faster! Getting your steak with cheese whiz may be the classic way to go, but it makes ME sick. I like mine with provolone cheese and no onions. My order would sound like this (money in hand), "Provolone without, please!" Condiments (ketchup, mustard, and delicious peppers) are available for you to fix up yourself at a little kiosk on the sidewalk. Seating is outside, but you are covered by a roof so you won't get rained on.
Geno's Steaks (across from Pat's on 9th Street)-- Geno's, with its neon flames and brightly lit celebrity photographs-- is a formidable rival for Pat's. The ordering system is fairly similar (two windows), and seating is also outside under an awning. I mean, I can't really recommend one of the other. They're both open 24 hours, and when you hop out of the cab, you can pick whichever one you like... or both!
Those are the two everyone knows about. Here are a few other popular places:
Jim's Steaks at 4th and South Streets
Tony Luke Jr's at 118 S 18th Street, not far from Rittenhouse Square. You can see some of the reviews on the linked page. There is an original Tony Luke's on Oregon Avenue, but it is WAY south of center city, and unless you were a real cheese steak fanatic, I don't think anyone would be making the trip.
There are many websites dedicated to Philly cheesesteaks and where to get the best one, etc. Put "Philadelphia Cheesesteaks" into your google search engine if you want to know more!
Pat's King of Steaks (at the intersection of 9th and Wharton, and Passyunk! You'll most likely want to take a cab)-- many people believe Pat's is the best. And then, some people (who like cheesesteaks in general) hate Pat's. Things to keep in mind-- there is a certain way of ordering that is fun to learn. Read the posted signs and listen to the people in front of you when they order. Also, observe that there is one line for steaks and one line for fries and drinks. Split up and get through both lines faster! Getting your steak with cheese whiz may be the classic way to go, but it makes ME sick. I like mine with provolone cheese and no onions. My order would sound like this (money in hand), "Provolone without, please!" Condiments (ketchup, mustard, and delicious peppers) are available for you to fix up yourself at a little kiosk on the sidewalk. Seating is outside, but you are covered by a roof so you won't get rained on.
Geno's Steaks (across from Pat's on 9th Street)-- Geno's, with its neon flames and brightly lit celebrity photographs-- is a formidable rival for Pat's. The ordering system is fairly similar (two windows), and seating is also outside under an awning. I mean, I can't really recommend one of the other. They're both open 24 hours, and when you hop out of the cab, you can pick whichever one you like... or both!
Those are the two everyone knows about. Here are a few other popular places:
Jim's Steaks at 4th and South Streets
Tony Luke Jr's at 118 S 18th Street, not far from Rittenhouse Square. You can see some of the reviews on the linked page. There is an original Tony Luke's on Oregon Avenue, but it is WAY south of center city, and unless you were a real cheese steak fanatic, I don't think anyone would be making the trip.
There are many websites dedicated to Philly cheesesteaks and where to get the best one, etc. Put "Philadelphia Cheesesteaks" into your google search engine if you want to know more!
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